Istanbul
Maps
Suggested Itineraries:
Day 1 - Historical Peninsula
Sights
Eats
Fish sandwiches and pickles from boats at Tarihi Eminönü Balık Ekmek
Cağ kebabı or Iskender kebab at Kasap Osman
Spicy vegan meatball wraps at Çiğköfteci Ali Usta
Hearty homestyle Turkish cafeteria at Balkan Lokantası
Hamdi Restaurant Eminönü is overpriced and touristy, but honestly delicious and an institution
Shopping
Carpets, ceramics, souvenirs at the Arasta Bazaar (also less crowded and no aggressive sales)
School for traditional Turkish handcrafts, ceramics, marbled paper at Cafer Ağa Madrasa
Famous purveyor of Turkish delight and other sweets Hafiz Mustafa
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi is the most famous Turkish coffee roaster in the country, you can smell it from blocks away. Pick up a packet or two to take home.
Day 2 - Beyoglu
Sights
Hagia Triada Greek Orthodox Church
Galata Mevlevi (Dervish) House
Shopping
Antique and vintage stores Çukur Cuma Caddesi
Eats
Chose your own adventure street food tour:
‘islak hamburger’ sliders steamed in spicy tomato sauce at Kızılkayalar Taksim
Suat Usta Mersin Tantuni for Turkish ‘soft tacos’, ground beef with onion, tomato, and parsley wrapped in soft lavas bread
Midyeci Memet sells my favorite stuffed mussels in the city. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, order them 'soslu' and they come covered with a bit more of the gravy they're cooked in
Sabırtaşı has a cart on Istiklal out front where they sell their famous ‘içli köfte’ meatballs stuffed in fried bulgur shell
Canım Ciğerim are most famous for their grilled liver, served straight from the grill on the skewer. Every order comes with a spread of complimentary greens and mezes
Other restaurants and cafes:
Fıccın Restoran this is our go-to local place. Serving Circassian and Anatolian food, excellent for raki and mezes, favorites include köpoğlu (roasted eggplant with yogurt tomato sauce), mediterranean herb salad with pomegranate, mucver (zucchini fritters), manti (dumplings), and thinly sliced liver (yaprak ciğer)
Mandabatmaz some of the best Turkish coffee in the city. Its name means ‘buffalo don’t sink’, presumably because the foam on the top is so thick a bull could stand on it.
Galata Konak Cafe long line to visit the Galata tower? Don't bother waiting, instead walk down the side street and take the elevator to the top of this building where you get an even better view and can take a load off.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu THE address for the best baklava in Istanbul (and maybe the world)
Ali Ocakbaşı Gümüşsuyu excellent grilled meat and meze with a great view to the Bosphorus, be sure to reserve a table on the terrace, walking distance from Taksim